Manuscript as featured in the May / June, 2014
issue of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Adam Barker.

[dropcap]Like[/dropcap] most trips to Hawley Lake, ours begins by stopping at Hon-Dah Ski and Outdoor Sport—a small angling and ski shop located just south of Arizona’s Pinetop–Lakeside community on Arizona Route 260—where we pick up our required tribal permits ($9 daily/$100 annually). Additionally, we obtain the latest fishing reports trickling in from the White Mountain Apache Reservation’s lakes and streams. The reservation offers several fisheries for anglers to explore. However, because it’s the fall season, our interest lies specifically with Hawley Lake’s large resident brown trout. Once the conversation drifts in this direction, we learn that the browns are already displaying prespawning behavior, which is extremely encouraging.

Joining me and my angling companion, Joe Staller, on this adventure is our good friend and local fly-fishing expert, John Rohmer. Coauthor (with Charles R. Meck) of Arizona Trout Streams and Their Hatches and founder of White Mountain Lakes Foundation (www.wmlf.org), Rohmer is also renowned for his original fly patterns and innovative fly-tying materials, John Rohmer Materials, www.azflyfishing.net. Recently, he’s been developing a new soft-plastic egg material similar to the eggs used by steelheaders and he’s invited us to help “field test” his working prototypes.

Outfitted with a bit more knowledge than when we arrived, we head down the road. Continuing south on Route 260, we pass Hon-Dah Casino and Resort, before turning right onto State Route 473. At this point, we start following the signage along the well-maintained road leading to Hawley Lake. A word of advice: a good map will benefit those not familiar with this area. It’s easy to get lost on the reservation.

Spanning 260 surface acres when full, Hawley is one of the largest and most popular of the White Mountain Reservation lakes. Due to its size, Hawley is typically best fished from a watercraft. Contrarily, the browns move in tight along the banks during the fall spawn making a boat less necessary. The tribe primarily manages Hawley as a put-and-take trout fishery, which attracts anglers in great numbers, fly and spin alike, to its abundant lakeside camping spots and rustic cabin rentals—especially in the warmer months.

During the cooler months, however, Hawley Lake seems more like a ghost town. This observation is further evident as we pass by the remnants of Hawley’s once-thriving lakeside resort—a reminder of a time when non-Native Americans could lease property as part of a 20-year agreement with the tribe. Subsequently, these leases were never renewed, and, as a result, these abandoned homes were left to deteriorate until the forest returns them to a natural state one day.

Alive with color and wildlife, the reservation wilderness is a beautiful sight this time of the year. Approaching the lake, we spot a band of feral horses running wildly through a grassy meadow. The surrounding scenery includes tall pine trees and scattered groves of aspens set aglow with autumn’s fiery yellow leaves. Making our way to the water’s edge, we notice the leaves are not the only thing burning here. There, beneath the lake’s shallow surface, we mark the object of our quest: brown trout—spawning brown trout—their bright orange sides radiating like hot embers as they swim in and out of view.

We’ve found fish; however, this is only half of the challenge at Hawley. Catching them is an entirely different story. Suspending Rohmer’s egg patterns below strike indicators, we witness fish after fish ignore our offerings as the males relentlessly chase the females. It’s becoming increasingly apparent this will be an exercise requiring grit and composure on our part. While the fishing is less than expeditious for the browns, we make the most of our time by landing several 10- to 12-inch rainbows in the deeper water.

Assuredly, Rohmer explains, “It’s Hawely—it’s a numbers game. When these big browns are thinking ‘spawn,’ you might have a hundred fish swim right by your fly and not give it a second look before you get one to eat it. And even then, it’s often such a soft grab, you may not feel them take it.”

Rohmer’s advice is well received—and through our patience and perseverance, we’re eventually rewarded with a couple of trophy-class “Hawley Hawgs”—their size more than making up for their lack of numbers.

Manuscript as featured in the March / April, 2014
issue of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Jon Luke.

[dropcap]C[/dropcap]oncealed within the San Juan National Forest—just a short distance beyond the beaten path—ambitious fly fishers will discover the wildly rugged Cascade Creek. Because of its limited access, Cascade appeals to those with a sense of adventure. The stream’s banks are recurrently lined with tall cliffs and thick brush, and the water is frequently congested with large boulders and downed timbers, which make reaching the best fishing spots challenging. Light-duty bushwhacking and scrambling are requirements for traveling any significant distance along this creek—especially its upper reach. The reward, for those willing to accept the task, is the opportunity to land feisty, high-mountain trout in a classic Colorado setting of pine, spruce, fir, and aspen trees.

Stream-born brook trout are the predominant species throughout Cascade Creek. Due to the short growing season, these jewel-toned beauties are opportunistic eaters and, consequently, they’re easily fooled by attractor dry flies. Colorful patterns—Stimulators, Royal Humpies, and Lime Trudes—make excellent choices for fishing the water’s surface. Adding a beadhead dropper fly will result in even more hookups. Again, these trout aren’t very selective, so feel free to offer a variety of weighted nymph patterns.

At Cascade, double-digit fish totals are not uncommon; however, the fish populating this region are generally small. A large brookie will reach only 11 or 12 inches in length. Bigger ones prefer the prime lies, typically located near the head of plunge pools. Keeping this information in mind, anglers should take the time to identify all possible holding areas before making a first cast that will place the fly strategically. It’s best to fish out an area completely before moving on. Using shorter, 3- and 4-weight rods will open up more casting possibilities, but in most places, standard 9-foot rods are still capable of delivering a fly with a gentle flip or dap.

From Durango, there are multiple ways to approach Cascade Creek by driving north on US Highway 550. Twenty-five miles from town, anglers may park near the Purgatory Flats Campground and trailhead, located on the east side of the highway across from the ski resort, and then hike down to Cascade Creek to fish its lower section. Another option is to drive farther north on US Highway 550 until you reach the hairpin curve in the road, where, in the middle, you’ll find the signed turnoff to Cascade Creek’s upper section on the left-hand side.

A unique way to reach Cascade Creek is taking the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (DSNG) from Durango to Animas Canyon and getting dropped off near Cascade’s confluence with the Animas River. From here, you can catch the train on its return journey to Durango later the same day or spend the night in the backcountry and rendezvous with the train the next day. Reservations for the DSNG railway can be made by calling (970) 247-2733, www.durangotrain.com.

Neighboring streams include Hermosa Creek, East Hermosa Creek, and Cascade’s largest tributary, Lime Creek.

]]> http://fishbum.com/cascade-creek-colorado-2/feed/ 0 http://fishbum.com/west-fork-oak-creek-arizona/ http://fishbum.com/west-fork-oak-creek-arizona/#comments Tue, 13 May 2014 22:40:47 +0000 http://fishbum.com/?p=1051

Manuscript as featured in the March / April, 2014
issue of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Jon Luke.

[dropcap]W[/dropcap]est Fork Oak Creek Trail 108, the gateway to Arizona’s Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness, may be the most popular hiking trail in the Coconino National Forest—and for good reason. Its famously scenic views create a sense of wonderment as painted canyon walls climb to dazzling heights. Just a short distance beyond this iconic gorge’s trailhead, anglers will discover the namesake creek, where, beneath a dense canopy of canyon maple and Gambel oak, the charming little stream ripples peacefully along the canyon floor.

The West Fork is Oak Creek’s main tributary and a riparian refuge for migratory wildlife in an otherwise harsh desert landscape. The well-maintained trail frequently departs from the creek bed for long stretches but reconnects at several crossing points. The gently sloping terrain is easily traversed, providing increased accessibility. During peak seasons, this destination attracts a multitude of recreationalists daily.

Nevertheless, reclusive fly fishers can still find solitude, despite the sometimes overwhelming crowds. The trail’s developed tract is limited to the first 3 miles before it enters a 9-mile, undeveloped, canyon-bound region where going farther requires hiking right in the water. Most of the day-hiking traffic dissipates before this point, leaving dedicated trout seekers ample deep pools, sprawling gravel beds, and areas of downed timber to explore upstream, with fishing steadily improving the farther you travel.

The West Fork is a delight to fish throughout the four seasons. Spooky trout reward anglers, who execute delicate casts during prolific Blue-Winged Olive hatches, which occur in spring and summer. Autumn’s spectacular color bursts make landing richly-hued rainbows on bushy dry flies especially memorable. In the winter months, beneath the undercut snowy banks, wild, stream-born brown trout lie in wait, ready to ambush slowly drifting streamers such as leeches and buggers. The entire West Fork is catch and release year-round.

Light tackle is your best choice for this technical, clear-water fishery: short 3- and 4-weight fly rods with light leaders are ideal. Wet wading during warm months provides anglers welcome relief from the Sonoran heat. Your fly selection may vary from day to day, probably the result of the stress these fish routinely experience. Be prepared to offer a wide range of dries, nymphs, and streamers to these picky eaters. Monster fish are uncommon on the West Fork, so your expectations should be tempered accordingly. That said, larger fish do occasionally put monster grins on anglers’ faces.

To reach the West Fork, follow State Route 89A—either south from Flagstaff or north from Sedona—and look for the signed turnoff that leads to the park’s paved entrance on the west side of the road. There is a day use fee of $9 per vehicle (good for up to 5 people) or $2 per person for walk-ins. In lieu of these entrance fees, anglers may present their Grand Annual Red Rock Pass ($40/annual) or their Big Three Pass ($18/week, $40/annual). But note that this area may be temporarily closed during periods of elevated fire danger.

Manuscript as featured in the January / February, 2014 issue
of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Michael Mauro.

[dropcap]Don’t[/dropcap] judge a book by its cover. The old adage may be somewhat threadbare, but it certainly holds true when applied to a nearly forgotten fishery in eastern Arizona. Outside the dense pine forest that is home to the White Mountains’ more famous regional waters sits an unassuming reservoir surrounded by 360 degrees of lunar landscape where, at the end of a dusty stone driveway, anglers find Becker Lake. Upon reaching Becker, you may not think it much out of the ordinary, but the 22-inch trophy rainbow trout thriving below the water’s surface make this place truly special.

Becker, possibly the oldest man-made lake in Arizona, was formed circa 1880 by impounding water diverted for irrigation purposes from the Little Colorado River. When full, its total surface area covers approximately 100 acres and reaches a maximum depth of 22 feet, with a median depth of 10 feet. The reservoir’s site—just within Springerville’s western boundary on US Highway 60—is also home to the adjacent Becker Lake Wildlife Area, where wintering bald eagles perch atop the nearby cottonwoods. The lake, is well known for its waterfowl, shorebirds, and other wildlife.

Becker’s minimal lakeside amenities include ample parking, a paved boat ramp, a permanent fishing dock, and vault-style restrooms. Overnight camping is not permitted at the lake.

In 2011, as the result of an extensive survey conducted of area anglers, AZGFD elected to initiate catch-and release and year-round single barbless hook regulations on Becker Lake. The new restrictions were part of an effort to address anglers’ increasing desire for more opportunities to land larger fish by fostering a genuine trophy-trout fishery. With the new rules in place, there was only one question remaining: who would monitor the lake to ensure that everyone was following these guidelines?

Because of departmental constraints, the AZGFD lacked the resources to adequately police the lake. This situation is where the newly formed WMLF was able to step up to the plate. Its volunteer members raised donations in a grassroots effort to fund the infrastructure improvements necessary to install a full-time lake host, who now monitors the location for possible poaching and educates visitors on the proper handling of fish that are to be released.

In addition to introducing the new catch-and-release regulations, the AZGFD began stocking Becker Lake annually with triploid trout, which are genetically sterile rainbows unable to reproduce in any environment. Lacking the ability to spawn, they invest their reserve energy in eating and, as a result, grow large quickly. The combination of new angling conditions and the sound enforcement of them—along with fast-growing trout—has resulted in an incredibly productive fishery in a very short amount of time.

Through the Seasons

Being a weedy, shallow basin lake, already capable of producing the abundant food supply necessary to support a healthy trout population, Becker Lake became a perfect candidate for a trophy fishery. At first glance, this spot may not seem significantly different from any of the other White Mountains lakes. Many area waters have physical attributes similar to Becker and, therefore, also possess the potential to produce really big fish. However, while these other places may produce trophy-class fish for a year or two, they inevitably fall victim to the winterkills that routinely plague this area. As a result, the holdover trout become casualties of oxygen depletion below the frozen lake surfaces. Becker Lake sits at a slightly lower elevation than its neighbors (6,910-feet), which allows it to avoid these seasonal winterkills and remain fishable nearly year-round, with the exception of the coldest weeks of winter.

Spring fishing typically starts to heat up at Becker Lake earlier than it does at its regional counterparts. As the water temperature begins to warm, midges begin to rise daily. During this part of the season, the trout seem to key in on midge hatches almost exclusively. Savvy Chironomid anglers incorporate slip indicators to strategically suspend midges up to 20 feet deep in order to target gluttonous trout that are gorging themselves on the tiny morsels.

As summer approaches, mayflies, such as Callibaetis, make their first appearance on the lake. Shortly thereafter, damselflies arrive and remain throughout the warmer months. Simi Seal Leeches, tied in a variety of colors, are popular patterns with fly anglers who prefer to throw big streamers. The egg-sucking version of this fly can be particularly effective in the early months of the year.

Because Becker fish often look upward, the lake’s dry-fly bite is sometimes exceptional, which is the prime attraction for the many giddy anglers who have watched one of the lake’s monster rainbows rocket to the surface to slam an unsuspecting dry fly. The prime dry-fly fishing takes place in late spring or early summer, when the wind gusts begin to pick up hoppers from the lake’s grassy bank and deposit them on the water. The opportunity to fish big hopper patterns is somewhat unpredictable, but when it occurs, it’s no secret: anglers have trouble concealing their enthusiasm and containing their excitement, which can usually be detected from across the lake. A similar situation occurs around monsoon season—traditionally July and August, but less dependably now in these times of Southwest drought—when the seasonal storms sprinkle the lake with giant carpenter ants. (Be sure to have a few big foam ant patterns in your fly boxes.)

By late summer, the lake’s temperature begins to soar and creates stress on the fish population. The AZGFD  advises anglers to avoid “overplaying” the fish and, whenever possible, quick releasing them while they’re still in the water. If you must get a picture, try to minimize the time the fish is out of the water and be sure to completely revive a fish before releasing it.

Knowledgeable anglers are aware that autumn can provide Becker’s best fishing experiences of the year because the lake’s trout are trying to bulk up for the impending winter months. At Becker Lake, peak fall fishing usually happens sometime around mid-November. During this time, the big boys swim about freely, looking for substantial meals such as leeches and the last of the season’s terrestrials. A local fly pattern called a Dog Bone—it’s simply a small piece of chamois cloth tied to a hook—has gained quite a reputation as an irresistible leech imitation at Becker. This unique fly can be successfully fished under an indicator or while being stripped in.

Having some sort of watercraft will help you cover more territory on Becker Lake. Motorized boats with up to 10 horsepower are permitted, and inflatable pontoon boats and float tubes also make excellent choices for fishing Becker Lake. While a boat will certainly open up more angling opportunities here, there is still a fair amount of water that can be effectively fished from the shore or by wading. Much of the lake’s upper end, located near the parking lot, is very shallow. Wading this particular section is especially good on days when the winds are extreme and the lake is covered in whitecaps large enough to make an inflatable watercraft impractical.

Fly rods suitable for Becker Lake range from 4-weight to 6-weight. A two-rod setup—one rigged with a floating line and a second rigged with a sinking line (intermediate or type-2)—will prepare fly fishers for everything from fishing top-water bites to sounding the complete water column below. Lighter leaders generate more strikes but will consequently result in more break offs.

Every angler who has fished Becker Lake can likely tell a tale about the one that got away. And it’s probably more than one: the lake’s large rainbows are known for snapping tippets on the hook set or coming unbuttoned as they make powerful runs for the weedy bottom. Anglers fishing deep or off-color water quickly learn that heavier tippets equate to more big fish brought successfully to hand.

Lodging and More

Downtown Springerville, located only minutes away, provides convenient lodging and services close to Becker Lake. When traveling to Springerville, stay on US Highway 60, which becomes Main Street as you enter town from either direction. Here, anglers traveling on a budget will find no shortage of economy options in the form of local motor lodges. Those looking for a more memorable experience should check into the Rode Inn Motel’s John Wayne Suite, which features a spacious, tastefully themed room honoring the famous actor, who once owned a nearby ranch.

While Springerville is not a sprawling metropolis, anglers will find that it adequately provides all the basic necessities for them and their nonfishing companions. Hungry visitors will enjoy dining options ranging from fast food to full-service, dine-in restaurants. One notable eatery, Los Dos Molinos, (928) 333-4846, serves authentic New Mexican fare that is sure to impress “foodies” who like their dishes picante. Be sure to stop into Western United Drug & General Store on East Main Street to pick up anything you may have neglected to bring along. A part of the community for more than 76 years, it will probably have whatever you need… and then some.

There are several additional lodging options located within an hour or so of Becker Lake, with the next closest town being Eagar. The largest city in the area, Show Low, is west of Becker Lake on US Highway 60. Nearby communities of Pinetop-Lakeside and Greer feature rustic charm galore in a more traditional wooded setting. At both these locations, visitors will find cabin rentals that range from quaint getaways for two to grand mountain retreats capable of hosting even the largest groups.

The surrounding Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest is home to many dozens of lakes and small streams, and provides ample outdoor recreation activities, including seemingly unlimited camping options. And if that isn’t enough, there are more lakes and streams tucked away on the White Mountain Apache Tribe’s (WMAT) Fort Apache Indian Reservation. Special permits are required for fishing on tribal land. The nearest fly shops are in Pinetop-Lakeside. The Hon-Dah Ski and Outdoor Shop, located at 787 State Route 260, boasts a full-service fly shop.

The Future of Becker Lake

The future of Becker Lake is still widely unknown. Will this current trout strain continue to grow in size? If so, to what size will they grow before they begin to max out? No one knows the exact answers to these questions yet; however, the AZGFD is committed to identifying ways to improve this lake’s aquatic habitat by annually surveying the fish and monitoring its food sources. While only time will tell the whole story, one thing is for certain: Becker Lake is already providing many anglers a memorable world-class trout fishing experience in the White Mountains of Arizona

Manuscript as featured in the November / December, 2013
issue of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Ryan Bonneau.

[dropcap]While[/dropcap] the calendar proclaims that it’s merely midwinter, the air temperature strongly suggests otherwise. It’s only January and already, I find myself standing alongside a popular tailwater on what is expected to be the year’s first 80-degree day. Despite having relocated to the Phoenix metro area from the Midwest nearly 15 years ago, it still feels surreal. Not only can I fish at a time when I was once shoveling snow, I’m also immersed in the natural beauty of the surrounding Sonoran landscape: giant saguaro cacti and expansive mountain views define a sizable watershed that seasonally supports a healthy rainbow trout population in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area.

The Salt River supplies water, power, and aquatic recreation to the Phoenix Valley. Formed by the confluence of the White and Black Rivers in the high mountains of eastern Arizona, the Salt meanders southwesterly, picking up several tributaries along its course. Downstream, where the river enters the Tonto National Forest, it is contained by a series of four massive impoundments: Roosevelt Lake, Apache Lake, Canyon Lake, and Saguaro Lake, collectively known as the Salt River Project (SRP). Just below Saguaro Lake’s Stewart Mountain Dam, the Salt River enters the Lower Salt River Recreation Area. Because water released from the dam is only 52 to 54 degrees, this 11.5-mile stretch of river has the unusual distinction of being a cold-water fishery in the middle of a desert.

Floating the river in a personal watercraft is a great way to escape the crowds and cover more water, but be sure to check the river’s flow rate beforehand to verify that it is safe.

Although the Lower Salt River Recreation Area lies within the Tonto National Forest, its close proximity to the city of Mesa lends an almost urban feeling, especially in the scorching summer months, when the water is often overrun with coeds who come to inner-tube the river, replete with beer, boom boxes, and bikinis.

However, from late fall through early spring, the river is almost exclusively occupied by anglers and other outdoor enthusiasts. During these cooler months, the Arizona Game and Fish Department (AZGFD) stocks catchable-size rainbow trout at varying locations. In early winter, when the SRP releases water from Bartlett Lake, the AZGFD stocks fish at the Phon D. Sutton and Granite Reef Recreation Areas, located adjacent to and below the Verde Confluence, respectively. As SRP waters resume normal flows from Stewart Mountain Dam in early spring, the AZGFD begins stockings at the Water Users access area and Blue Point Bridge Picnic Area.

In addition to the seasonally planted rainbow trout, anglers may bring to hand bass, catfish, carp, and native suckers. When the rainbows are actively feeding, they will often readily take a variety of nymph patterns. However, angling pressure keeps these trout from being easy marks. Stripping baitfish imitations, such as Clouser Minnows, is a good bet for the Salt’s multiple bass species. Swinging Woolly Buggers and Simi Seal Leeches may result in a mixed catch of trout and bass. In the faster current, beadheads or added split shot may be necessary to keep flies on the bottom.

Wild horses evoke the river’s Wild West heritage.

Most anglers park and fish near the Salt’s many paved lots. To find seclusion, follow the unmarked paths leading from the Bush Highway to the river’s edge. Floating the river in a personal watercraft is a great way to escape the crowds and cover more water, but be sure to check the river’s flow rate beforehand to verify that it is safe.

Besides fishing, the area provides spectacular wildlife viewing: bald eagles and peregrine falcons nest nearby and soar overhead, bighorn sheep climb along the rocky cliffs, and, amazing to many anglers, wild horses evoke the river’s Wild West heritage. In addition to an Arizona fishing license with a trout stamp (check current regulations, as the trout stamp program may change for 2014) , anglers need a Tonto Pass for daily use of the designated recreation areas. Passes are available at most nearby convenience stores.

Manuscript as featured in the July / August, 2013
issue of Southwest Fly Fishing magazine.
Cover courtesy of Southwest Fly Fishing.
Cover photo by Lefty Ray Chapa.

[dropcap]The[/dropcap] Jeep shudders violently as a powerful wind gust unexpectedly catches the 16-foot canoe attached to its roof like a giant sail. Awakened from my driving daydream, I quickly regain control of the vehicle and notice several dirt devils swirling in the distance. I send a reassuring glance over to Michelle—my startled wife, who is accompanying me—in an attempt to convince her I’m still alert.

After traveling along an empty desert highway, staring into the sun’s hypnotizing abyss for hours, we are finally approaching US Highway 89A, where we will start our descent into Arizona’s Glen Canyon. In my mind, however, I am already there, and my thoughts once again begin to wander. I conjure up spectacular images of landing Lees Ferry’s world famous rainbow trout in gin-clear water as countless tiny midges waltz on the surface film. It’s a magnificent blend of memories from previous visits mixed with high expectations.

A short time passes and then there it is in all its glory: the majestic Colorado River, one of the great Western waterways and architect of the Grand Canyon. The view from Navajo Bridge gets my adrenaline pumping. Knowing the turnoff to Lees Ferry comes immediately after the bridge, I sense that we have finally arrived. With the painted rocks of the Vermilion Cliffs towering above us, we make our way down the road to the boat ramp. This site is unique because it is the only place in more than 700 miles of canyon country where you can drive a car right to the Colorado River’s bank.

Once we reach water’s edge, we scan the area and I spot a pair of familiar faces fishing the Boulder Field. It’s Jack Dengel and Joe Staller, fellow members of my local fly-fishing club, Desert Fly Casters (DFC), based in Tempe, Arizona. The early fishing report is welcoming. The walk-in area is fishing well—very well, as in a 20-fish morning, which is good news. We still have a little time, so I scramble to rig up a fly rod and join them. Soon I have my first hookup of the long weekend on a Double Zebra Midge.

Heading Upstream

Every year, thousands of anglers embark on the journey in search of Lees Ferry’s tailwater treasures. To reach the greener fishing pastures upriver, most visitors employ one of the excellent guide services available in nearby Marble Canyon. While there is no substitute for fishing with a guide, do-it-yourself anglers can certainly fish upstream by bringing or renting a powerboat or—and this is surprisingly unheard of—floating the river with a personal watercraft.

In the angling world, “Lees Ferry” commonly denotes the 15-miles of fine trout water upstream from the historic crossing near the confluence with the Colorado’s Paria River tributary, where early pioneers crossed the river to pass between Arizona and Utah. This stretch of the Colorado, located between the Lees Ferry boat ramp and Glen Canyon Dam, is classified as Class I or “flat water,” with only small disturbances on the surface. Unlike the area below the boat launch—which is the starting point for Grand Canyon white-water rafting trips—the upper section doesn’t require special permits or certification for using a personal watercraft. You simply reserve a shuttle with one of the area’s backhaul services to take your party, watercrafts, and gear upriver.

Lees Ferry fishes well all year, but spring and fall are best for self-guided float trips because of lower flows and better weather.

We’d designed this year’s itinerary to include a three day, two-night expedition that would allow a full day of fishing on the second day, and we’d scheduled a pick-up for 4:30 p.m. on Thursday to allow plenty of time for members from Phoenix to arrive. I like to assemble my boat fully in advance to make sure that I haven’t overlooked any critical components and that I have the necessary fishing and camping gear as well as appropriate safety equipment. Once I verify everything is accounted for, I begin stuffing items into dry bags (anything not stored in a dry bag will get soaked).

Right on time, the backhaul boats make their way to the boat launch area to meet us. Once we are all aboard, we begin our 15-mile journey upriver. This incredibly scenic ride to the dam takes a little more than an hour, but you can be dropped off at any of the beaches. This part of the trip is a good opportunity to have your driver point out the six approved campsites along the way.

The First 24

We part ways with the backhaul service on the beach farthest upriver, just below the dam, and are now on our own. We plan to stay the first night at “Ropes,” about a half mile downstream, giving us an opportunity to lash everything to our watercraft and make a short easy paddle before setting up camp. The new paddlers have a chance to get a feel for the river and ease any anxiety they might have.

When we reach Ropes Campsite, we find a friendly couple with kayaks already residing there. Luckily, this location has plenty of sites suitable for small bivouacs or two-person tents. We choose to set up on the far side of the campground to give some privacy to our overnight neighbors. In a short time, everyone’s tent is up and it is time to start thinking about food.

As we’re finishing dinner and readying to turn in for the night, things begin to take an unexpected downturn. The light breeze starts to increase dramatically. Before long, we’re dealing with a full-blown haboob, or desert dust storm. With 30 mph sustained wind and 50 mph gusts, we hunker down for what can only be described as a miserable night outdoors. The haunting howl of the wind, combined with the constant sand blasting from the beach, make it impossible to sleep. Several times, I venture to the water, struggling to stay upright, to check on our boats. As we aimlessly lie awake in our sleeping bags, we are all, no doubt, thinking that until this storm passes, we aren’t going anywhere. There’s a distinct possibility we may be stuck here tomorrow.

Luckily the wind begins to die down around 5 a.m. and things seem favorable for continuing our adventure downstream. But not without a setback. The water level at Lees Ferry fluctuates twice daily as the discharge from the dam causes it to rise and drop significantly. As a result, one of our group members, whose inflatable pontoon wasn’t properly secured, loses it in the rising water. Boats of any size can be lost at the Ferry, leaving you essentially stranded. If your boat does get away, resist the impulse to jump in and swim downstream after it. Much of the river, which is extremely cold, is canyon bound, making access to the shore impossible.

Fortunately for our member, his boat only gets swept across the river, where it waits patiently, swirling endlessly in one of Lees Ferry’s many eddies. With a little teamwork, we recover the runaway boat and, before long, are on our way.

Fishing the Ferry

With the sleepless night and the morning’s misadventure firmly in our rearview mirror, it’s time to get down to business. Lees Ferry is famous for its estimated 12,000  fish per mile. This year, the river seems to boast an even better than usual population, with a wider range of fish sizes than in recent memory. Most of the rainbows we net are 12 to 14 inches, with an 18-incher being the largest one. All appear healthy and strong.

A typical Lees Ferry fly selection includes Zebra Midges in various colors, and red San Juan Worms are reliable standbys. Glo Bugs and other egg patterns work at times, and big streamers do well, particularly in the mornings.

While there are some similarities between fishing upriver and the walk-in area at the Lees Ferry landing, there are many noticeable differences. As the flows change, the fish seem to move around more. This is particularly relevant in the river bends and stretches with protruding gravel bars, so you must frequently adjust the amount of split shot needed to keep your fly in the strike zone. You also have to vary your line mending direction based on the flow conditions.

Although fishing from a drifting watercraft is possible at Lees Ferry, from my personal experience, it has not proven very productive. We do pick up a couple of fish while drifting, but we have far more success by stopping to wade the gravel bars, beaches, and small riffles along the way. Lees Ferry river etiquette states that if another boat occupies a beach, you should politely pass by. Paddling upstream is very difficult and since it’s impossible to predict if a beach will be open downstream, my advice is to stop and fish any available water that looks remotely promising.

A good map of the river will help you identify the beaches that typically hold fish and provide a reference point of your position on the water. Be aware of the passing time and monitor your progress toward your next fishing destination or overnight camping accommodation. Don’t float the river near dusk or after dark because powerboat skippers won’t see you.

Nine Mile Beach

Horseshoe Bend, located in the middle of Lees Ferry, one of the most iconic and most photographed points on the Colorado River, provides three approved campsites. The swath of sand located on the very tip of the bend is Nine Mile. This long, sandy beach with a gravel bar point has a great fishing reputation and is our agreed upon camp for the second night.

When we arrive at Nine Mile, we spot Tom Horvath, another DFC club member, with a guide and boat from Marble Canyon Outfitters. Horvath and I are buddies, and since they’re at the end of their fishing day, I know he won’t mind if we beach for the night.

Horvath’s guide is Mick Lovett, owner of Marble Canyon Outfitters. The three of us share stories from our day on the water. Horvath landed lots of fish from this spot using a fly Lovett calls a Chop Special, a midge pattern tied by a fellow guide. They really seem to have this stretch of water dialed in. With our party ashore, Lovett helps one of our Lees Ferry rookies net what would be the biggest fish of the trip.

On Nine Mile just before dusk, the river begins to quiet. All of the boat traffic is gone for the evening. Then it happens: the fish start to rise, slowly at first, with a single ring here and there, and before we know it, trout are jumping and breaching everywhere. But they’re no longer interested in the midges or San Juan Worms that have been working, and the surface shows no sign of insect activity. I remember a similar evening on a previous trip when I tried everything I could think of and was left confounded, simply watching and wondering what’re these fish doing and what fly would they possibly take?

So instead of trying to match the hatch, I tie on a large foam cicada—a big insect that won’t be on the river for at least another month. But trout are opportunistic, right? The first cast results in the unmistakable splash of an aggressive fish gulping the terrestrial from the surface. I bring this gorgeous rainbow to hand and have my personal best fish of the trip.

Hungry trout continually whack the fly on just about every pass until well after dark. As the evening passes, the trout switch from taking the fly on the drift to taking it on the swing and finally under the surface as I strip it back. Casting blindly into the night sky, I’m not ready for this evening to end. But eventually, with my fly thoroughly mangled, I decide to call it a day and get a good night’s sleep.

Day Three

Waking up on Nine Mile, we are faced with a major dilemma. Do we stay and fish here or head downstream? Half of the group decides to gamble and leaves in search of unknown opportunities. Three of us remain, asking why leave fish to go find fish? The morning’s progression begins with streamers and then transitions to San Juan Worms. As the sun begins to make its way onto the water upstream, we switch to midges exclusively. While we are certainly content to stay and fish here all day, around noon, we realize that we need to get moving.

Our late start from Nine Mile means more continuous paddling to get back to the boat launch at a reasonable time. Feeling satisfied with the fishing thus far, we casually paddle our way through the snaking canyon and absorb the breathtaking beauty of the scenery and wildlife. We stop periodically for short breaks and to wet a line or snap a few photos. But we’re generally diligent in continuing downriver and eventually making our way back to where we began.

They say, “All good things must come to an end.” However, in our case, because we are camping one more night at the main Lees Ferry Campground, we still have the walk-in area to look forward to in the morning.

Going It Alone

Floating Lees Ferry in a personal watercraft is more than just a fishing trip. It’s a true multisport wilderness adventure and such trips certainly aren’t for everyone. If you only want to fish or simply aren’t eager to camp in the backcounty, hiring a guide or renting a powerboat will still provide great fishing in a famously scenic setting.

Self-guided trips mean being solely responsible for your personal safety and well-being. You must be capable of paddling a long distance, dealing with any obstacles along the way, and performing self-rescue in the event of an accident. However unlikely, any accident at Lees Ferry has the potential to be life threatening. Be sure to have a solid game plan and appropriate clothing and equipment.

Verify with the manufacturer that your watercraft—canoe, kayak, inflatable pontoon boat, or raft—is approved
for the class of water you will encounter and weight you intend to carry. All boat types have their advantages and disadvantages when it comes to floating Lees Ferry. Under no circumstances should anyone attempt to use a float tube.

Do your homework, learn the flow schedule, and use common sense. Wear an approved life jacket or personal floatation device at all times while you are on the water. With the proper research and planning, you should have a safe and enjoyable trip and memories to last a lifetime.

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